as far as possible. If wires are led under or through spaces where they cannot be readily seen and followed,

Fig. 134.—Wiring “Perfection" Plug-transformer

it is a very good plan to use various-colored wires, as in that way the wires from one place to another may be easily traced. If several different-colored wires are not

Fig. 135.-Wiring "Connecticut " Plug Coil

available, colored strings or bits of cloth may be fastened here and there to each wire and this will serve to identify

them. Never lead a secondary and a primary wire through the same tube, staple, or insulator, but keep them as far apart as possible, and never attach either primary or secondary wires to any metal except at the terminals. If metal must be used, be careful to have the wires doubly or trebly insulated by winding with tape where they touch the metal.

The terminal connections of both primary and

secondary wires where they connect with batteries, coil, timer, and plug are often sources of trouble and should be carefully made and frequently examined. Various styles of battery connectors and terminals are for sale and most of these are excellent. The "Bull Dog" battery connectors, as well as the various spring clip connectors, work very well; but those made from

a piece of sheet metal and soldered to the wires often break partly off without any external sign of the fracture and in this way cause an interrupted or weak current that is exceedingly difficult to locate. Primary and secondary terminals for the main wires come in a variety of forms and designs. A common form is shown in Fig. 137, which represents the "Reliance" terminal. These may be used by slipping over the nut or thumb screw on the top of spark plug or may be fastened by

screwing the nut down over them. Another splendid style of terminal is the "Ball and Socket" form illustrated in Fig. 138. These terminals are designed to be fastened to the wire without solder or special appliances. It is only necessary to cut the wire off square, shove it into the socket, and screw the wood screw in tight. The sides of the terminal are made of spring metal with a recess to fit over the ball adapter or hexagon ball nut furnished as a part of the equipment. The use of the ball-and-socket joint allows free play of the wires in any direction and insures a perfect connection.

Terminals which will answer every purpose may be readily made by bending the end of the wire into a loop, twisting it together and soldering it firmly in place.

In repairing, adjusting, or overhauling motors various gaskets or packings will be encountered, and as these are usually broken or injured in getting the joints apart, it is essential that the operator should know how to make new ones and be familiar with the materials to use. Gaskets are rings or sheets of material cut into the form

Fig. 138.-" Connecticut" Terminals

of the parts and placed between two surfaces, such as the two sides of a cylinder head, between the two sides of a union, etc. They are made of paper, asbestos, fibre, metal, rubber, leather, etc. The best material for cylinder-head gaskets and any other places where there is considerable pressure, as well as water or gasolene, or both, is the material known as "semi-bronze";

this packing consists of a fine sheet of copper-wire gauze embedded in a sheet of asbestos and covered with graphite or black lead. In many places exceedingly thin gaskets must be used, and in such spots tough manila paper well soaked in oil or grease and rubbed with graphite is the best material. Metal gaskets are used between flanges in flange unions, on exhaust connections, etc., and usually come ready-made in various sizes.

Asbestos of itself is a very poor material to use about gasolene engines, as it is frail, is readily soaked by water or gasolene, and is hard to cut or handle without tearing or breaking. In making a gasket the best method is to clean the part to be fitted and then lay a sheet of the paper or other material over it. With a smooth-faced wooden mallet or piece of rounded hardwood, tap all over the surface until the edges of the joints, as well as the various bolt or screw holes, are well imprinted on the material. Then, with a circular punch, cut the holes where indicated and after this is done cut out the edges of the joints. A gasket must never have rough edges that will bind or catch in the joints, and the holes for the bolts or screws must be smooth and ample in size. Rub the gasket with oil or oil and graphite before placing on the joint and then lay upon the surface of the joint carefully. Be sure there are no wrinkles, bits of dirt, or inequalities in the gasket and make sure that it fits perfectly before placing the other part of the joint on it. When all is ready, place the two pieces together and screw home the bolts a little at a time, working gradually, first on one side and then on