A SNAKE IN SPECTACLES.

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animal larger than himself which he had just swallowed. His body, swollen to excess, seemed to have been shortened, and resembled an immense toad with a short tail. He was grovelling in the centre of the narrow path, and seemed to be waiting either for fresh food or a physician's visit. Nevertheless, my first movement was one of terror, and having narrowly escaped treading on him, I intended a speedy retreat, not knowing but that the monster would pursue me; but, on looking back, revolver in hand, I perceived him still motionless in the path. Then I began to think that perhaps he was dead, and, ashamed of my terror, I retraced my steps. I saw two Arabs coming, like myself, from the village, so I went to them, and explained by my gestures, that there was something ugly in the road. They understood me, cut two sticks from a palm-tuft, and advanced towards the serpent, who was now wriggling and jumping feebly. The Arabs made signs to me that there was no danger, and I drew near. One of them took hold of the brute adroitly by his tail, which made him stretch himself out longer, but a blow from one of the sticks took his head off with the precision of a razor.

One of the Arabs slit the creature's stomach, and there we found the remains of several fowls on which

he had supped. This was the first time I had seen this horrible serpent, which is common enough in Upper Egypt, and which the ancient Egyptians worshipped as an emblem of royalty. The naja, in his concentrated form, during the period of digestion, is frequently represented in the jewels and ornaments found in Ancient Egypt. The Arabs urged me to keep the skin of this one, but nothing would induce me to touch the slimy thing; indeed, the mere thought of the horrid reptile made me shudder for long after.

We were to leave Senouhrès on the morrow, and we paid parting visits to the sheik and the notables. The dancers, especially Hasné, came to express their sorrow at our departure. No doubt it was serious; our sojourn had been profitable to them, for we had bought them several dresses and veils. Hasné was profoundly affected, and we wished to keep her to breakfast; but her peculiar habits at table obliged us to renounce the idea, and, in order to keep her quiet, we showed her photographs. These constituted our great resource, and, indeed, we frequently resorted to them ourselves when the bill of fare was meagre, or we had to wait for the soup.

One of us, a modern Hercules, possessed a superb

HAND AND GLOVE.

III

pair of dogskin gloves, which were of the greatest use to him in this country, where one must be always riding either a camel or an ass. Seized with a happy idea, we put these gloves on Hasné's hands. I never saw anything more comical than this woman's little hands lost in the enormous red gloves. Her delight was indescribable; she was prouder of the gloves than of all the necklaces we could offer her; she ran from one tent to another, uttering cries of satisfaction ; she showed her hands to everybody, and it was only by telling her that the gloves were enchanted, and would bring her ill-luck, that we could induce her to give them up. After tender farewells, and liberal bakshishs, we set out the following morning for Medinet, the most important town in the province of Fayoum.

SKETCH VIII.

A PRIMITIVE FOREST.

Fidémine-el-Fayoum - Biblical Hospitality A Pharaoh's RatRespect to the Flies--Return from Market.

WE had to pass twice through Medinet, first in going to Fidémine, and afterwards in returning thence. Strictly speaking, we could have taken another road, but a melancholy circumstance rendered this retracing of our way necessary. One of our party was taken ill, and it became necessary to send him to Cairo for medical treatment. The route from Senouhrès was long and laborious, although it lay through cultivated lands, and we were quite sheltered from the sandstorms. The innumerable canals which intersect this part of the province render the road an actual labyrinth; and, as there is no plan of them, a native guide is indispensable. Without one we must have lost our way, or gone over the distance tenfold.

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In the district which lies near the great canal, called 'The Canal of Joseph,' vegetation obtains its most extraordinary proportions, and surpasses the

THE CANAL OF JOSEPH.

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most exaggerated conceptions. In many places we passed under actual arches of verdure, formed by the enormous branches of trees and shrubs which we are accustomed to see of much smaller dimensions. The orange and lemon trees grow here to the size of our old oaks, forests of cactus and aloes spread beyond sight along the roads, and form an impenetrable rampart. After having followed these marvellous roads, we came out upon one of the widest branches of the Canal of Joseph. This canal is one of the most important works in all Egypt. Very curious legends are connected with its construction and its Biblical origin. On approaching Medinet, we observed a degree of animation such as we had not previously noticed on approaching any town or village. The rank of the locality was indicated by soldiers in uniform, and horsemen splendidly equipped, and its social and commercial importance was injurious on the picturesque side, to the local colour of the place. In fact, it was very difficult to induce the inhabitants to permit us to encamp in the environs of the town. The people of Medinet are fast losing the gentleness and rural simplicity in their manners and dress which essentially characterise the Fellah population. Our dear invalid, accompanied by a trusty servant,

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