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hood serves the double purpose of the overcharge, and a pretext for making travellers
Epitaph at Llanrwst. take four horses. We were in high spirits. “ PROPE jacet corpus Griffini Lloyd de The storms of the day had left a fresh and Brynniog olim Ludimagistri pleasant evening, literally and metaphori- | Indigni Llanrustiensis nuper cally. The horses went with complete ease; Lecturarii Indignioris et Rectoris we seldom heard the whip. When we walk- Indignissimi Doegensis. Sepult ed, the driver would not,—not he! the Decimoquinto die Martis horses did not want to be eased. Tom
Anno Domini swore; I only laughed at the fellow's oddity.
1779. It was the pleasantest stage of the whole
Nil de defuncto dic scribe journey. At Liskard we were put into the
Putave maligne." bar while our fire was kindled. I counted there forty-three punch-bowls, — positive punch-bowls,-forty-three,--and the house was full at the time. Zounds! what punch At Rodney Stoke, between Wells and drinkers they must be in Liskard ! and what Cross, under Mendip, there is a cottage a consumption of lemons !
somewhat like the home of a novel-heroine. Friday, April 18th. Rundell arrived after A little white washed thatched house, with us at one in the morning. A new attempt a garden that shows there is wealth enough to make us take four horses. I called the to attend to ornament. Clean milk pails mistress of the house, and told her our Tor hung upon the rails; a fine weeping willow Point story. This completely shamed her, overhung the road, or rather lane, and and she almost apologized. She did not under it a stream of water passed from the mean to impose,—she thought,-she was garden into a stone trough, for the village afraid,-she did not know,-it was hilly,– but if we came from Tor Point with a
At the village Tom and I breakfasted in chaise- This was more knavish than even a clean little alehouse ; some ornaments of Tomlins. The road was not very hilly, the twisted glass stood upon the chimneypiece. stage twelve miles only, and a road as good | The grate was filled with reed blossoms, as any I ever travelled. Breakfast at Lost- which looked like plumes. A fellow came withiel. A pretty town.
The Cornish all along selling “ Last dying speeches," and look clean with their slate roofs; and the I saw that he found customers. tower here is singular. Here we got restive horses, and a restive driver, who fought MR. RICKARDS, or Ricketts, near Stroud, them nearly two hours. Edith and Run- told me that as he was coursing or shooting dell walked back; it was but a mile. I in the neighbourhood of Llantrissiant, his paced the road, watched the brook, looked native place, he went to pass through what at the flowers, flung stones, did a thousand seemed a patch of red dirt. But his foot natural things, not to mention the non-na- sunk, and he fell, and to his infinite astoturals. Eight to St. Austel, a nothing-to- nishment he found his leg burnt through be-said- about place. Fourteen, Truro. the boot, by which he was confined for many Twelve, Falmouth. The last twelve pretty, weeks. The place was out of all paths, and and through the uncouth streets of Penryn, only some old people knew that such a which seem made on purpose to take the ground-fire existed. traveller round as many acute angles, and up and down as many hills as possible in a October 4, 1805. KESWICK to Wigton, given distance. We found the packet in twenty-two. Above Bassenthwaite hills a the harbour.
new and fine view of the lake. Derwentwater
is hid behind Brandelow, over which the fells our boots. Two wooden grenadiers, in the behind Barrow rise, and over these again old uniform, are painted and cut out to those of Langdale. From hence a dreary their shape, one at the bottom of the stairs, country. Square inclosures on the distant the other on the landing place. hills, without a single tree. Uldale, a small Saturday, 5. Market day. Innumerable village on the right, before we reached carts of potatoes and sacks of wheat, indiIreby, one of those townlets where every cating plenty in the land. Saw the Cathething reminds you of the distance from dral, its tower would be poor for a parish London. We had soon a view of the plain church, and looks worse for standing on so below us, with Solway firth and the Scotch huge a pile. The inside is better than I mountains to the north. The plain ex- suspected; the old stalls remain, and are tended as far as we could see-a noble very fine, but a double row of pews disprospect—the more striking to us as we figure the choir ; and the window, which came from the close mountain country. has to every compartment a border of Wigton a thriving town. To Carlisle eleven. orange-coloured glass, with corners of bright The coach days to Edinburgh are Monday, green, flings a glaring and ill assorted light. Wednesday, and Friday ; so we are thrown We noticed a remarkable arch over some out. To Glasgow only a mail at three every of the oldest tombs, which might be brought day, in which you have only the chance of in favour of the sylvan origin of Gothic a place.
architecture. A bough, whose lesser boughs At Wigton the houses are painted a nasty were thus lopped, and bent to an arch. dark red; the stone itself being reddish, There were four of these. Looking at this, and of a good colour. One of the coarse we were told that we stood upon Paley's common alehouse prints in the staircase grave. On a wooden closet which holds there was of the battle of Wexford. Miss the altar cushions, &c. boys had cut their Redmond at the head of the rebels. It names; we read those of Sawrey Gilpin, the looked as if the artist wished well to the horse painter, and of Robert Carlisle, the Irishmen. Near this place we saw one of artist. The lives of St. Austin, St. Antony the quadrangular farms common in Scot- the Great, St. Cuthbert, in a series of paintland, originally contrived for defence; the ings, had been whitewashed over at the outhouses surround or inclose the fold, and Reformation; but Percy had them recovered, the dunghill is in the middle of the court. as far as could be done. One compartment
The bed curtains at Carlisle were a good of Augustine's life confirms the fact that the specimen of political freedom. General | Devil keeps books; old Belzey has a huge Washington was driving American Inde- one, with great clasps, upon his back, and pendence in a car drawn by leopards, a it seems a tolerable load for him ; he is sayblack Triton running beside, and blowing ing “ Pænitet me tibi ostendisse librum.” his conch, meant, I conceive, by his coronal Went to the castle. They have built a of plumes, to represent the native Indians. depositary for arms within its court, and In another compartment, Liberty and Dr. another for field pieces. The portcullis is Franklin were going hand in hand to the entire-the first I ever saw; the wood cased temple of Fame, where two little Cupids with iron. Called on the Miss Waight. were holding a globe on which America They have many excellent books, and an and the Atlantic could be read. The Tree excellent house. They showed us a porof Liberty stood by, and the Stamp Act trait of Lord William Russell's mother, reversed was bound round it.
when an infant, in miserable fine full dress, The waiter there was a Scotchman, un- with a ruff and a long strait waist. They commonly civil, he bowed as he asked if complained of the change in Carlisle since we would please to give him leave to clean | the manufacturers had got there. The population had increased from six to fourteen thatch fastened down with a cross work of thousand, without any addition to the de- straw-ropes. cent society of the place. Poor Scotch and Twenty-two to Hawick. Up a long windpoor Irish made up the number, and the ing vale by the Euse and the Tiviot; which, place was swarming with poor, without why it was called pleasant Tiviotdale I did either manners or morals.
not understand, till the desolation beyond Some few of the carts had the old original taught me. Ten miles on the road is Mosswheels, as in the north of Spain; one of paul Green inn, Roxburghshire, where a them we saw on the road, laid against a foot traveller might sleep. It stands in a bank for a style. Symptoms of Scotland | long combe, the green hill on each side soon appeared—we met sheep drovers with sloping down, and meeting almost in a the common grey plaid scarft round them, point. This was a striking scene of pastoral and a woman walking bare foot and carry- solitude, a little scanty stream below. It ing her shoes. Arthuret church the last grew dark, but our horses pushed on well, English place of worship. Here Elmsley to keep company with some led ones, which once heard an evangelical tell his congre- had just passed us. Cross the Tiviot at gation that the road to hell was not the Hawick. Eleven to Selkirk, in the dark, safer for being well frequented. Just leav- but over a country where sunshine would ing Carlisle pass the bridges ; on the sands have been of no use. below the cattle market is held. Skiddaw At Langholme we had seen the first appeared in a new shape, and of more visi- symptoms of Scotch manners; the small ble magnitude from distance. Beyond it beer was bottled, and they gave us no cloth the ridge of the Borrodale mountains, and with our cold meat. Selkirk had the true I fancied—it must have been fancy, I think odor Scotic. We had a dirty room, behind —that Langdale was to be seen.
which I heard such long echoes, that being Cross the line and reach Longtown, nine. in a land of Bogles, I did not feel much A new town built in a double cross, in fact, inclined to investigate whence they pro. chiefly an appendage to the Graham estate, ceeded till the morning. Then we found and the work of that family. Prints of it was from a large ball room ; and here
vile aquatints of views near London, among this being the county town. which was one on Brixton Causey. Three Sunday, 6. Selkirk is truly a dismal miles on are two turnpikes, about fifty yards place. The houses all darkly rough cast, asunder, one in each kingdom. There the and made still more ragged by a custom of Scotchman is said by the story to make a painting the window out-frame work exfortune by taking a penny from each of his actly to the shape of the wood, which the countrymen who go to England, on con- carpenter always leaves without any attendition of paying a shilling when he returns. tion to squareness. These imperfect squares To Longholm, in Dumfriesshire, twelve, of dirty white, upon dirty rough cast, give along the Esk most part of the way, cross- a most dolorous appearance. A new town ing it once. So beautiful a road I do not house, with a spire, seemed to have no buremember anywhere out of the lake coun- siness in such a place. We went to the try. A clear, loud stream, fine woods, and kirk, and just walked through it; it had no fine shores. Past Gilnockie on the right, other floor than the bare earth. Some vile the castle of Johnny Armstrong. Scotch daubings of Justice, Adam and Eve, &c. farms have an exterior of plenty, as having on the gallery front, its only ornaments, no barns.
All their corn is in little ricks, where there had till lately been a picture ten, twenty, thirty, close to the house, of a Souter of Selkirk taking measure of a neatly enough shaped, and their conical | fine lady's foot. In the kirkyard a square
mass of masonry, in which a door had lately | into a kirk. Miss Waugh showed me an been walled up. I took it for a vault above epigram which a friend of hers had stuck ground; but am told that tomb-chambers up in this abominable den of sacrilegious are not uncommon in Scotland. The peo- Calvinism. ple dismally ugly, soon old, and then bossbent; but I liked the plaid, the gray plaid,
Mellrose, within thy sacred shrine either wrapping them in wind, or scarft
Angels might once have loved to dwell,
But now there's not a decent swine across in sunshine; and I liked the bonnet. The clocks here are stopped by night.
Would quit his sty for such a cell.” Walked seven miles to Mellrose, first in Three windows are patched up with misersight of the Ettrick, then of the Tweed. able glass for this place of abomination; and Passed on the way a kirkyard, with a few to show that they are not in the right way, remains of the kirk, the ground being still one way in is through the window. I saw regarded as consecrated. The Scotch have steps leading up to one, and could not imaa great objection to lying in unhallowed gine for what purpose, till an old woman ground, and also to naming the Devil other crawled up, pushed open a coarse wooden wise than by some periphrasis, usually, it plank, which served to fill up one half of seems, a complimentary one-as the Auld one division, and crept in. gude man is his common name.'
The tombstones are remarkable here; Mellrose at length appeared, its old abbey some as being well executed, others as a like a cathedral; to the right the Eldon hills, contrast to the fine taste of the ruin. There high and finely shaped: the Auld gude is the bust of a freemason, raised in a hollow man having broken them formerly to please frame, with the mystic signs of his craft, Michael Scott. The ruin it were hopeless upon one of the most remarkable. to describe-50 wonderful is its beauty.? Returning, we saw the junction of the Certain masons in the neighbourhood boast Tweed and Ettrick, which we had before that they are descended from the builders, passed unnoticed. An old house stands the family have always been of the same near the angle of their junction, well cotrade, and continue to be the best in the vered with wood. country. The finest window is injured by Monday, 7. Seven miles to Ashiestiel, having placed the clock above it, which has Walter Scott's. We for led the Ettrick, cracked it above. Worse than this, they and soon came in sight of the Tweed, prohave converted the middle of the church ceeding along its banks, or in sight of them,
instead of crossing the bridge, which is the i From the Greeks downwards there has been
direct road to Edinburgh. Scott took us the same notion. The Furies were propitiated
over the hills to see the Yarrow, a classic under the name of Eumenides; on which, instar stream. It winds from a solitary and sorominium, see Müller's Eumenid. $ 87.
rowful country. This a quiet and beautiful There can be no better illustration of this vale—more beautiful because all around it superstition than Sir WALTER's own words in Rob Roy. Speaking of the Fairies,“ who it is so dreary. I forded it on foot, the water not positively malignant to humanity, were yet not being above my boots. The greyhounds to be avoided and feared, on account of their killed a young hare on the opposite shore, capricious, vindietive, and irritable disposition,” | odd as it may seem, the first I ever saw he puts into Baillie Nicol Jarvie's mouth these
taken. Newark castle stands on a little words, “ They ca’ them,” said Mr. Jarvis in a whisper, Daoine Schie, which signifies, as I knoll above the water, wooded on that side, understand, men of peace; meaning thereby to one of the old square towers of the old bormake their gude will.” – Vol. viii. p. 160, and der banditti. Some ten men were once shot note, p. 179. ? The reader will not forget Sir Walter Scott's
within its court. In fact, every place here own description of Melrose.-J. W. W.
has its tale of murder. We did not ask the
name of a single place without a story in Thursday 10th. Eight miles to Bank house, reply that somebody had been killed there. a single inn; nine to Middleton. In the Some cousins of Scott's came to dinner, kitchen here the grate stood out, not being
Tuesday, 8. Had Scott's horses not been fastened to the chimney back. We crost out of order, we should have gone to St. the South Esk and the North Esk. The Mary's Loch, from whence the Yarrow Pentland hills appeared on to the left, to proceeds, and where the flower of Yarrow the right Arthur's seat. Past through Lasis said to have lived. The boys still point wade and Dalkeith, and by Craig Millar out the scene of that tragedy. We there- Castle, a dirty coal road; the city where fore merely walked up the river to Elibank we entered dirty and dismal also. castle, another of the square towers. They Friday 18th. By stage to Carlisle. Saw a are carrying away its ruins to build a broken chamberpot used as a beehive; exbridge upon the adjacent road to Peebles. cellent Scotch economy! That part of the The young laird of this place was taken in road which we lost by going to Ashiestiel
ne of his marauding parties by the Scotts, very beautiful. Selkirk looked well on the who were about to hang him, but the old hill, with its townhouse spire, before we lady of the clan offered him her daughter, crost the Ettrick. Beyond Hawick we past Wide-mouthed Meg, as an alternative. He Branksome close on the right, Tiviot flowpreferred hanging ; but his heart failed him ing close on the other side of the road; it when the halter was put round his neck, is the Cheviot hills which we cross between and Meg with her wide mouth was con- this place and Langholme. Dined at Hawick, veyed as his bride to Elibank, where the and bought a red nightcap and cravat there marriage was celebrated; she was an excel- to travel in, things for which the town is lent wife.
famous. Delayed there for the late arrival Wednesday 9th. Went salmon-spearing of the coach from Carlisle; a miserable on the Tweed, being the last day of the journey with foundered horses from Langsport. I had a spear, and managed one side holme the rest of the way, so that we did of the boat. I saw the sport without par- not arrive till half-past two in the morning, taking of it. Three were taken, being all having been nineteen and a half hours. we saw. One had the mark of an old wound Saturday 19th. Parted with Elmsley, and in his back, a cruel sport, though of all set off on foot, a long straight road through fishing the best. The savage grin of joy in a flat country, till I came near Dalston, one of the men, when stooping down till where there is an old hall, a very pictuonly his chin was above water, (he had got resque building; the Caldes here has left a salmon by the tail, Scott's spear being more marks of inundation than I ever saw through the creature's nose,) would have elsewhere; it must be a most ungovernable been in character for a Dog-ribbed Indian. stream. Through Hawksdale up to Warne A Mr. Marriot came to dinner, an Oxonian Fall. I had been directed to make for Ultutor to some lordling near. He talked of dale, but here found Caldbeck so near, that having seen the track of a horseman on the I took that road in preference. Saw the hill; and I found that, as in a savage coun- Hook once more, though almost dry. Took try, the inhabitants here can tell by the track bread and cheese at Hesketh New Market. what horse has past, and how long ago. Our Three portraits on board in the little inn, evening might have done for old times; he, of what nation I could not guess; the face I and Scott reciting ballads : his was a de- not very unlike a Chinese, but certainly not plorably bad business upon Purlin Jane, Chinese; they were women, and so alike, made by I know not whom. Scott repeated that I conclude they were sisters. The head some of Hogg's, the Ettrick shepherd, who dress as here in Charles the Second's days, is a man of genius.
but with outlandish ornaments appended to