with, if possible, some fibres attached to it. These offsets may be taken from roots of three or four years old, without injury to the plant. They may be planted where they are intended to remain, at the same distance and in the same manner as advised for the seedlings; but, as before observed, they seldom succeed so well.

Artificial Culture. For forcing rhubarb the following methods will be found to answer the expectations of those who put them in practice. The varieties which stand first on the list for this purpose are the Tobolsk and early Elford.

For forcing in the open ground large pots will be required to be placed over the roots, and covered with fermented dung. When the plants are fairly up, which will be soon, and they are observed to get too large for the pots, larger pots must be substituted in their room, or large hand glasses, if there be any to spare: they must be well covered with mats every night, and in unfavourable weather. It has been observed that under such a mode of culture rhubarb comes very delicate and fine-flavoured, and quite equal to that forced in pots.

In respect of the dung to be used in covering the pots, it may be noticed that it makes but little or no difference whether it has been previously prepared by turning, or procured fresh from the stable, provided it is not suffered to heat too violently, as the internal heat should be kept to between 55° and 60° of Fahrenheit.

Those persons who dislike the trouble, and others who have neither large pots nor dung at command, may be told, that covering the roots of rhubarb in

the open ground with dry mulchy stuff about six inches thick, will forward the leaves for use nearly a fortnight before those that remain uncovered.

For forcing rhubarb in pots, plants of one (if strong), two, and three years' old will be eligible, and also cuttings, after one year's growth.

As soon as the leaves are decayed in autumn, the plants may be taken up and potted in deep pots, allowing for an inch of earth at bottom, and the same thickness round and over the top of the root. The mould should be light and rich, and after the planting a good soaking of water will be necessary on purpose to fill up any hollowness between the roots; the pots are then to be placed in a vinery or in any part of a forcing-house, and where no other plants would thrive for want of light and air. When the rhubarb plants begin to grow, they must be copiously supplied with water, which will cause them to produce stalks for use, early, and in abundance. As it may be perhaps difficult to find a really dark place in a forcing-house of any description, pots similar to those used for forcing in the open ground should be inverted over the pots of rhubarb, which will certainly exclude both light and air.

After the plants have done producing stalks for culinary use, they may be turned out in a rich piece of ground, when after a year's growth they may again be taken up for the purpose first assigned

them.

Hot-beds, frames, or pits, where a gentle heat can be kept up, will do extremely well for forcing rhubarb, provided the glasses are kept darkened.

Care must be taken that the roots are planted of sufficient depth to allow for the leaves growing and expanding to their full height and size.

The advantages of blanching the stalks of rhubarb are twofold; namely, the desirable qualities of improved appearance and flavour, and a saving in the quantity of sugar necessary to render them agreeable to the palate, as the leaf-stalks when blanched are infinitely less harsh than when growing under the influence of light, in open situations.

The pots for the purpose of blanching sea-kail and rhubarb should be deep (particularly for the latter), and with covers to fit close, these being more convenient than taking the larger pots entirely off, though for sea-kail it will be necessary, as they require to be cut close to the ground.

50. ROCAMBOLE.

- Var. ALLIUM.

The generic name allium is the same as for the onion, with which the rocambole is classed; the specific scorodoprassum is a compound word, signifying growing in bunches on the stem.

The rocambole, of which there is but one variety, is found wild in Sweden, Denmark, and Germany, and has been cultivated in this country since the year 1596. It has compound bulbs, like the garlic, but much smaller the root is heart-shaped, solid, and generally stands sideways of the stalk: the stem rises from two to three feet in height, and produces many small bulbs at the top of the joints, which may be made use of, as well as those of the root. Rocam

boles are cultivated for the same purposes as garlic, and by many persons are considered milder; but at the present time they are not in much estimation.

Culture.-Rocambole may be propagated, either by the offsets of its roots, or by the cloves produced on the joints of the stalks. The cloves are planted in the same way as directed for garlic, about October or November, as they generally grow to a larger size than when planted in the spring season. The richer the ground, the more cloves on the stem may be expected, which are considered more delicate than those from the root.

51. SAGE.— SALVIA.

The ancient name salvia is supposed to allude to the healing and salutary qualities of the plant. The English word sage is derived from the French word sage (wise), having the property, it is said, of strengthening the memory.

The Garden Sage is a native of rough stony ground in the South of Europe. It was first cultivated here in the year 1573.

In ancient times sage was celebrated as a remedy of general efficacy; but at present it is not considered as an article of much importance in medicine.

It is sometimes employed as a sudorific, and is also drank in the morning, in the form of tea, for strengthening the nerves or in cases of weakness of the stomach.

Sage is principally used in this country as a seasoning for strong meats, ducks, sausages, &c.

T

Sage cheese is now not in much demand, though, in the author's younger days, seventy or eighty years ago, it was held in high estimation.

There are three varieties of the sage generally cultivated: the Narrow-leaved or Tea Sage, which will be noticed in the list of physical herbs; and the Green and Red Broad-leaved, which are the two sorts to be preferred for culinary use, but more especially the latter.

Culture. All the varieties of this plant are easily propagated by taking off slips or cuttings, and planting them in April in any light dry soil, the less enriched with dung the better. Slips .both of the former and the same year's growth may be used; but the plants raised from young slips are generally the strongest and most bushy.

All that is requisite in the after-culture is keeping them clear from weeds in summer, cutting down the decayed flower-stalks in autumn, and slightly digging between the rows.

In preparing sage for drying, the reader is referred to what has been said under the head of Mints; only, in gathering it, care and attention should be given not to cut the tops too close, so as to render the plants naked and stubby, especially when late in autumn and winter, as they would be more liable to suffer from severe frost than when the head is preserved somewhat full and regular. Sage, from the thick texture of its leaves, will retain its virtues, when in a dried state, for many months.