tall and larger kinds of peas, particularly for Knight's tall wrinkled, the egg-pea, and such like, full an inch apart is required.

In respect of earthing peas: such as are to have sticks should have two earthings: the first when they are a few inches high; after the hoe is used between them, a little is to be drawn on each side; and the second, previously to their being sticked, when six inches high. Those intended to be laid down may also have a little earth drawn up on each side, but not so much as to draw them from the side where they are to be finally laid, which should be the warmest of the row, and the earth should be in sufficient quantity to keep them in that position, by which means not only will the peas be strengthened, but the wind will have less power over them. Where a constant succession of peas is required, they should be sown more or less every three weeks or a month from February to July; and, from the hint here given of sowing early and late sorts at the same time, a succession may be kept up, not only during the summer, but till October, and in some years until the middle of November; for it is a well-known fact (which the author has proved) that Knight's tall green marrow, sown about midsummer, will produce a supply from the middle of September till the end of October, or longer, should the weather continue mild and open. If it so happens that the weather is very hot and dry when peas are to be sown, the following hints should be attended to: After the drills are drawn they must be well soaked with water, and the peas likewise, during the previous night, which will cause them

to come up quick, and keep them in a regular growth; and if repetition of the watering is necessary, earth may be drawn up on each side the rows, which will contain water sufficient for the purpose, and not a drop will be wasted.

The following mode of sticking peas, and especially the taller varieties, is both cheap and simple, and possesses many advantages. Procure a number of strong thick stakes or thin poles, in length according to the height of the peas, from five to ten feet, and drive them into the ground on each side of the row, at the distance of three or four yards; pass a small line along the poles, taking a turn on each, within a few inches of the ground, and, as the peas advance, raise the next turn a little higher, and so on in succession till they have attained their full height. Seize the tendrils of the peas and twist them round these lines, by which they will be supported in a better manner than by the common method of sticking. When spread regularly along the lines, they have a fine circulation of air, and pods can be pulled at all times without injuring the haulm; and as the birds have no twigs to alight on, the portion of the crop which they otherwise would devour and destroy is saved. An excellent way to preserve peas or beans from mice is to chop up the tops of the last year's shoots of furze, and sow them in the drills: the author has known it to have been an effectual remedy in several instances where these mischievous little animals had been very prevalent.

Artificial culture. Peas may be successfully raised so as to produce a very early crop, in hot

beds, under glass, in pits, and also in early-worked peach or grape-houses.

For forcing in hot-beds under frames: such should be made and earthed up as advised for kidneybeans; and on the whole a similar treatment should be adopted.

For this purpose the peas should be sown in pots or pans, rather thick, and placed in a frame under lights, until they are sufficiently strong for transplanting, when they may be carefully taken up with the roots, as entire as possible, and planted in frames or pits, from front to back, in lines fifteen inches apart, and two or three inches asunder, giving plenty of air by day, should the weather admit of it; but keeping them well covered at night. may be observed that in whatever way peas are raised for forcing, they should invariably be transplanted; indeed, it would be well worth while to transplant the earliest crops in the open ground.

It

For peas in frames or pits the temperature may be progressive, beginning at 40° Fahrenheit, and raising it to 52° or 66° from the commencement of the growth of the plants to their state of flowering; and after flowering, increase it from 55° to 70°, or in a regular heat between the latter limits. When they seem dry, moderate refreshments of water will be necessary; but more especially when in blossom, and the pods setting and swelling to perfection.

Bishop's or Groom's early dwarf are to be preferred to any other sorts for frames and pits; and the single-blossom, early frame, or the racehorse for peach or grape-houses.

The following excellent mode of raising an early crop of peas was communicated to the author, through that most useful of all works on gardening, Loudon's Gardener's Magazine, a few years since, and he has practised it with perfect success. About the first or second week in November, select six dozen pots of the 16 size, and fill them within two inches of the top with light rich mould. Then sow over the surface of each pot, with early frame or racehorse peas; but not so thick as to touch each other little more than a quart will sow the whole. The pots are then filled up with the same mould, and placed in a cool frame or vinery, protected from frost and the mice. In. the first week in March they will be about six inches high, and the pots well filled with roots. Having made choice of a warm spot on a south border, they are now transplanted, by digging a hole sufficiently large to receive the contents of each pot; care being taken not to disturb the roots, but to preserve the balls entire. They are planted in rows, four feet apart, and two feet in the rows, in the alternate or quincunx manner. If the nights should prove frosty, cover each tuft with a flowerpot, and take it off every morning, which prevents them from receiving the least check. At the latter end of the month the pots are taken away, and the peas are sticked, each tuft separately, and inclining a little outwards at the top, to allow the plants plenty of room to spread. This method is quite applicable to all dwarf-growing peas, which will never be found too thick the air having a free circulation round each tuft, they begin bearing nearer the ground than

those grown in the usual way, and in parallel lines, besides being more productive.

Peas are in general sown too thickly in drills, and by that means are drawn up so weak that they seldom produce any pods till they have arrived at their full growth, and then only near the top.

By following the above directions a first dish of green peas may generally be gathered early in May; and the number of pots mentioned will supply a family, upon an average, with three dishes of green peas per week till the other crops come in, the first or second week in June.

44. POTATO.- SOLANUM.

Under the ancient name of Solanum (which is not well defined) is classed the Tomato, Eggplant, and several other species, and accounted of a poisonous nature. The nightshade belongs to this class, and is well known to be a deadly poison; but the varieties above named, including the root of the valuable potato, have happily proved otherwise. This root has now, and for some years past, formed, alike, the rich man's luxury and the poor man's bread. It is distinguished from the other varieties by the specific name Tuberosum, signifying tuberous-rooted.

Potato, the English name of this vegetable, is derived from its similarity to the Battata, the sweet potato of South America. It is supposed to be a native of that country, being grown in the neighbourhood of Quito, where the Indian name of Papas (from the root) is given to it by the natives,