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occurrence for parties going out in the morning for a half hour's stroll on the sands, to be shut out there, with the tide possibly rising to cut them off, until two o'clock; when the, time of prayer is ended. The origin of the custom is, that in the year A. H. 580 (A.D. 1184), in the month of Chaaban on a Friday, El Mayorky entered Bugia at the hour of prayer, while the faithful were in the mosque. Since that time the gates of all Moorish cities are shut on Fridays during prayer-time.

Other interesting ruins, well worth a visit, and within an easy ride of Tangier, are those of the city of Alcazar Seguer, on the sea shore at the mouth of the Wad Alcazar. This town was taken by Alphonso, king of Portugal, in 1468; but he soon after abandoned it, when it was left to decay. Many old trees, fig, olive, cork, etc., grow among the ruins.

Another favourite ride is through the Swany Road, which skirts the inner side of the sandhills, and commands a fine view of the bay. This is also known as the Road of the Ambassadors, and by its width and apparent evenness seems more deserving of the name of road than any other of the paths leading out of Tangier. But its appearance is most deceptive; for on getting into it, it is found to be a mere fenced in track of sand. It does very well, however, for riding, but is most distressing to pedestrians, sinking as they do ankle deep at every step. It leads to the village of

[graphic][subsumed]

RUINS OF BRIDGE (SUPPOSED TO BE ROMAN) NEAR OLD TANGIER.

See page 252.

Swany, which consists of one stone building, the residence of the chief, or "head man " of the little community, and some eighty mud huts, the roofs thatched with the leaves of the palmetto. A former bashaw of Tangier had a handsome country residence here one time, the ruins of which, of considerable extent, still remain.

country about In the spring

For naturalists, excursions into the Tangier have a never-failing interest. many beautiful birds are to be seen, the most plentiful being the Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster) which come in large flocks, and look lovely wheeling about in the sky, the sun shining on their brilliant green and yellow plumage. Besides these there is the Hoopoe (Upupa epops), much scarcer than the Bee-eaters; the Golden Oriole, and many others. I may mention that there is resident in Tangier an Italian naturalist, Signor Olcese, from whom specimens of all the birds to be found in the country may be purchased.

This part of Morocco is an equally rich and new field for the botanist and zoologist. Quantities of orchids of all kinds are to be found among the sandhills and in other places, and the Marshen abounds in beetles of various species. I regretted very much that, though feeling much interest in them, my want of knowledge on these subjects prevented my utilizing my visit in any way in this direction. Shells, too, are to be found on the sands in abundance. The beautiful paper

nautilus can be obtained in perfect condition, but these. must be purchased from the natives, who always, in the season, take care to go out early and secure them. Sometimes, in particular winds, the sands are covered with the curious little shell, the Spirula nautalis, or Litnus prototypus, the peculiarity of which is, that the fish lives outside not inside it. This little shell is the nearest representative of the fossil Ammonita.

But the most popular place of all for excursions from Tangier, is Cape Spartel. Of this, however, and the excursion I made to it, I shall give a special account in the next chapter.

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