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It will now be desirable to return to our grand central line, which we find prolonged in the elevated plateau of Armenia. This remarkable highland, between Trebizond and Mósul, has a width of 360 geographical miles*, preserving a general level of six thousand feet above the sea; but towards its southern termination, the mountains of Juwar Tagh are said to reach the elevation of fifteen thousand feet, and from thence the descent is almost abrupt, to the low level plains of Mesopotamia. This highland has, as will be supposed, its elevations and depressions; thus, Erzrúm is seven thousand feet above the sea, and consequently possesses a cold climate; whilst the fine plain, in which Mush is situated, which is 4700 feet above the sea, is one of the richest in the Turkish dominions; and the remarkable valley of Bitlis, is little more than three thousand feet above the sea level. This valley, which is entered by three ravines, is filled with orchards, and irrigated by numerous streams and springs; whilst bare limestone mountains rise on every side to the elevation of about two thousand feet above the valley, in the centre of which stands an abrupt rock, about sixty feet in height, crowned with an ancient castle; "the whole," observes Mr. James Brant, who visited this spot in 1838, "combining to form a prospect as singular as interesting." In the highland of Armenia is situated the salt lake of Van, which is 5470 feet above the sea. On the shores of this lake, rises the mountain of Supan Tagh, 9500 feet above the sea, and full 4000 feet above the lake.

In this elevated land, are also situated the wild and picturesque mountains of Lázistán, which are chiefly composed of volcanic rocks, forming in one part an entire mountain of the beautiful volcanic glass, called obsidian. These mountains are singularly wild in their character, with high perpendicular cliffs and terrific gorges, interspersed, however, with beautiful and picturesque valleys, adorned with almost every species of the various fruit trees, met with in

* About 413 statute miles.

temperate zones, growing in the utmost perfection. The general character of these mountains is, nevertheless, bleak and rugged, and several of the summits attain a great elevation above the sea, being covered with perpetual snow.

Continuing our course to the eastward, the beautiful peaks of the Greater and Lesser Ararat burst upon our view. The whole country in this vicinity, is full of traditionary stories relative to Noah's ark and the Deluge; and the Armenians, as soon as they see Ararat, kiss the earth, and repeat certain prayers. They call it "the Mountain of the Ark;" and the Persians designate it as "the Mountain of Noah." The height of this imposing and snow-capped mountain is 17,260 feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Hamilton, who visited this spot in June, 1836, says, “It is impossible to describe the effect produced by the first view of this stupendous mountain, rising in majestic and solitary grandeur, far above the surrounding hills and mountains. The morning was beautifully clear, the sun had just risen, and not a cloud, or particle of vapour, obscured its striking outline: and it was impossible to look on this mountain, so interestingly connected with the early history of the human race, without mingled feelings of awe and wonder." The Greater Ararat is covered with perpetual snow, but the Lesser Ararat loses its icy covering in summer. Mount Ararat is considered to be of volcanic formation; indeed, the whole country appears to rest on a basaltic base.

Mount Sevellan, the height of which is 13,000 feet above the sea, is the most elevated summit in this district next to Ararat; and like that, seems to consist of the cone of an extinct volcano, being supposed to have been more recently in a state of activity, than any other in this territory.

The whole of the region we have now been considering is remarkable for the abundance of fruit-trees which grow in its plains and valleys; indeed, the country on the western banks of the Caspian, is supposed to have formed the original habitation of most of our choicer fruits; and it is from hence that the apricot (fig. 62), has obtained its

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THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY

ASTOR, LENOX TILDEN FOUNDATIONS

name of Prunus armeniaca. In the low plains of Mesopotamia, watered as they are by the Tigris, the Euphrates and their tributary streams, vegetation flourishes luxuriantly; and the date-palm winds along the course of these rivers, extending to Bagdat on the one side, and overshadowing the ruins of Palmyra on the other. The banks of the Tigris beyond Bagdat, are fringed with cucumbers (fig. 19), and with weeping-willows (fig. 108), which also still shade "the waters of Babylon." It is not a little remarkable, that, desolate, and converted into a heap of ruins, as is the once great Babylon," some apparent vestige of its celebrated hanging gardens should yet remain. This consists of a solitary tree, a species of tamarisk, not considered a native of this region; but which still possesses a verdant top, and occupies a ridge near the ruins of an ancient palace.

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In the higher parts of the plateau of Armenia, a totally different climate prevails, from that experienced in the low

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